Finally. We are on the TMB. We have spent years thinking about this day and over a year actually planning the details. We are here. On the TMB.
We woke up at 6:00 to catch the 7:01 bus from the hotel to the official starting point of the TMB, where we snapped many pictures (of us and a number of solo hikers who were beginning at the same time.) Then we set off. The trail begins on the sidewalk through town and within a quarter mile we were at a bakery getting mini quiches, cafe au lait, and croissants. I was digging the hike at this point. Most would probably call it a stroll to breakfast, but we had packs! We had hiking poles! We were hiking!
After fueling up, we continued on. Within a mile we turned off the road and headed up. Straight up. If I’ve learned one thing about hiking in Europe today, it’s that they don’t believe in switchbacks. When we went up, we went uuuuuuuuuupp. When we went down, we went dooooooowwwwwwn. The first couple of miles were tough, but I’ll let others write about that if they want. By mile three we had climbed well over 2,000 feet and took a quick break at the top of whatever we were climbing to the top of. There were clean toilets and cold water to refill water bottles.
After the long incline, we experienced our first decline of the trip. 1500ish feet in what seemed like half a mile. I had done a lot of reading about the downhill of the TMB and how brutal it was. I didn’t believe anything I had read. I looove hiking downhill. At least compared to uphill. Mostly because I like being able to breathe. Well, I had been wrong to not believe what I had read. It was soooo steep. But we took small, intentional steps and made it down. To go back up. To go back down. And then a few more times.
The most interesting part of the hike to me so far is how we meander through these tiny villages and the outlier buildings. The villages might have a spot to get a bite, a chapel, a school, or maybe just a cluster of chalets. Every building was adorned with gorgeous flowers and gardens. We’ve never had a hike that included so much non-nature, but yet such beauty.
My phone recorded slightly different distance and elevation than Zak’s, but mine is higher, so that’s the official one. I had us coming in at 12.51 miles and 3,603 feet of gain. Mine didn’t record descent, but it was about 3,300 feet. No wonder we’re all exhausted!
As we came into Les Contamines, our first stop was a brasserie. We got big, cold beers and a salad and charcuterie to share. Perfect, since we hadn’t really done lunch.
We hiked the final mile to our hotel with happy bellies and were so happy when we checked in. A. It’s adorable. B. Most importantly, they had a pool! We all hopped right in, Zak and I even getting a few laps of triathlon training in. We walked back to the downtown area for a dinner of buckwheat crepes. Although exhausted, Zak and I couldn’t resist a drink at the rhummerie across the street from the hotel. Note to America: we need more rummeries.
We’ll see how tomorrow goes. Our bodies are sore and tired now. We have another huge day ahead of us. I think our packs are going to feel even heavier. But I also think we’ve got it!
You’ve totally got this! And wayyyyy prettier than I even imagined!! Love the pics mucho.