And he’s got big balls,
And she’s got big balls,
But we’ve got the biggest balls of them all!
-AC/DC
Whew, that was a HIKE! As expected, the giant snowpack this year forced us to nix plans to summit Pyrimid Peak. After consulting with a ranger we found what looked like a good substitute, but I’ll get back to that in a bit.
I left off yesterday’s post as we sat down on the patio of the Stargazer Inn in Baker, NV to play games. We were soon interrupted by an intense, but brief, thunderstorm. After it passed we stepped back outside and met a group from South Carolina doing a trip similar to ours. We swapped stories and favorite places for a couple hours before everyone decided it was time for dinner at Kerouac’s.
Kerouac’s, without any question, was the best meal we’ve had this trip. I started with an Old Fashioned that rivaled Vol. 39 in Chicago, we shared roasted brussel sprouts that were perfectly seasoned and charred. The burgers that Ellie and I had were delicious as well, and the leftover cold pizza that Molly and Zoe had last night and that I had for breakfast this morning was still tasty. The girls split a sea-salt chocolate cookie for dessert and Kate brought a berry one for Molly and I. We thought we were finished, but Jake brought Molly and I glasses and Amaro that were a perfect end to the meal. To make it even better, we were the only people left in the place, so we got to spend some time talking with the owners and staff. With all the mediocre food in the destination gateway cities (Moab and Estes Park in particular) it’s awesome that Kerouac’s exists in the tiny town of Baker. Do yourself a favor and stop is you’re ever inspired to visit Great Basin NP.
We settled into bed and the next thing I knew it was morning. We weren’t in a huge rush to got the trail since we had the rest of the day to get wherever we decided to go, so we grabbed a quick breakfast at Kerouac’s. Coffee and scones with lemon curd and jam – delicious again. Took a bit of time to repack Fred and head a couple blocks to the Great Basin NP visitor center. With the ranger’s help we decided on a repeat of the hike we’d done last time we were here, but with an extra 6 miles and 1,700 feet by taking a route up Pole Canyon before heading to the meadow at the foot of Pyrimid Peak we’d call home for the night.
The hike started out really easy. The first phase was a 3 mile 1,200 foot descent through the campgrounds to reach the Pole Canyon Trailhead. Then we wrapped around a ridge and began a climb that never really ended until we reached out home for the night. The first few miles were fairly gradual and I was able to enjoy the sound of the stream we kept crossing over, the butterflies fluttering around us, the flowers plants and trees and lined the trail, and occasionally views of the large basin to the East.
Shortly after noon we reached what promised to be the steepest climb of the day, 600 feet over just half a mile. Spirits were still high and muscles still strong so we made it to the top of the ridge and rejoined the Baker Creek Trail we took up a couple years ago. This trail was the first time we backpacked together as a family. We all remember it being unrelentingly steep and quite miserable. After gaining more experience I now understand why I thought that. Simply, it is, in fact, unrelentingly steep and although everyone kept their spirts high, I was on the miserable side of the emotional spectrum.
The worst part for me came after we reached 9,200 feet (of 9,600). The snow that we saw from a distance was now everywhere around us. Generally, the trail was covered with 2-3 feet, but there were places where the drifts reached 20 feet. Hiking in snow is like hiking in sand, but worse. I sunk in with every step. Normally this was just an inch or so, but every so often I’d hit a soft patch and sink a foot. As I’ve already said, everyone kept their outward spirits high, and a chance for the girls to sled down a hill on their butts just before the summit put them all in a jovial mood.
I didn’t feel great at the top, which I think was a combination of altitude, exertion, and too little food and water. Molly let me take a couple hour nap while she and the girls hung out in their tent. I woke up hungry and thirsty, but after some beef jerky and Coors I felt back to myself.
Now I’m in my tent listening to the last of the bird songs and watching the fading light. We have a much easier hike out in the morning, just a couple miles and downhill the whole way.
