Waking up at camp is never fun. Before even being able to stretch or brush teeth, we have to get right to work. We are all responsible for packing up our sleeping gear inside the tent: sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and camping pillow. Seems easy but each of those items has to be shoved into an impossibly small bag. It takes a whole lot of energy and muscles to do it all, in fact the girls aren’t physically able to do their own sleeping mats. It always takes me a significantly longer time than Zak to get those chores done, so his tent is usually down by the time I wobble my way out of mine. (It’s really hard to get out of those things while standing and trying to put on the flip flops that were outside all night. Most definitely one of my least graceful moments of the day.) Zak and the girls usually work to tear down camp and reload the car while I get ready for the day. I have cut back significantly on my personal hygiene while camping, I no longer insist on shaving in the morning. If you know me at all, you know this is a HUGE deal. However, I still insist on brushing my teeth, washing my face, putting in my contacts, putting my hair in braids or buns, and applying a few coats of mascara. All that takes about the same amount of time it does for Zak and the girls to get done with the camp stuff, about an hour total.
Once the car was loaded we drove the few miles to the Navajo National Monument Visitors Center and awaited the started of our 8:15 ranger led hike to Betatakin, an impressive cliff dwelling complex. The monument is on the Navajo Reservation, yet the Hopi were the ones who occupied the pueblo centuries ago. Ranger Cassandra, a Navajo, led us and another couple down the 1,000 foot vertical decent to the bottom of the canyon. Along the way she told us of the many ways her family and tribe uses the plants that surrounded us. We’ve long known that yucca can be used as a shampoo, but she decribed how after blessing the plant, they cut a 3-4 inch section off an east facing root, clean it, and begin a three day process of turning it into pulp. Whatever part isn’t used is returned to a juniper tree near the original plant and another blessing is performed. She described how her family still uses each type of plant that we encountered. It was fascinating to learn.
Once at the bottom of the canyon, we were able to see Betatakin. I believe this may be the best preserved cliff dwelling we’ve laid eyes on. I know Zak mentioned in a previous post that most we see no longer have roofs. Several of the rooms still had the original roofs. Additionally, ladders, woodbeams, doors, everything is in amazing original condition from the 1250s. We saw such detailed pictographs and petroglyphs. Ranger Cassandra was able to give the Navajo translation of them, but couldn’t promise it meant the same to the Hopi. Regardless, it was awesome to hear a translation that was clearly more legit that what I have going through my mind each time we look at the relics.
After the ranger led portion of the hike and tour, we were able to make our way to the top at our own pace. The CCC built somewhere between 700 and 800 stairs during the Great Depression and they did a mighty fine job. Although the craftsmanship was supurb, I think we all would of preferred an elevator. Ellie had the most challenging time, but a surprise phone call from the Schultzs, our neighbors, and my promise that we could call back at the top, was just the motivation Ellie needed to finish the final 200 feet of incline.
We spent most of the rest of the day in search of WiFi for Zak to make some rtxix reservations. McDonald’s says that all their spots have free WiFi, what they don’t tell you is that it sucks and isn’t reliable or strong.
Tonight we’re staying at the Thunderbird Lodge (strangly the third accommodations this trip with that name) at Canyon de Chelly National Monument. We did the driving tour with many pull offs this afternoon and we’ll head onto more adventures tomorrow.
